The Road Less Travelled

The road less traveled. There’s usually a reason. The other day, Paul and I packed up our knapsacks with an ample supply of water and tuna and drove for 3 hours to Llano Nopo, a large village in the Comarca. The Comarca is an enormous amount of land, with predominately mountainous terrain, given to the indigenous by the Panamanian government. Most parts of the Comarca are only accessible by foot, horseback or 4x4. The purpose of our trip was to interview a local “Cuandero” (healing man) to continue our research into alternative medicines and attend a community meeting hosted by our in-community worker, Andrea Martinsen. Llano Nopo is a hub community that services 17 smaller communities around it. It’s in this community that Dead Wheat is considering setting up a aquaponic greenhouse to help all the communities prepare for the upcoming food shortage and move them toward greater independence and sustainability and provide them with healthier food choices.

Driving to Llana Nopo is an adventure in itself. The first hour and a half is on paved highway. No problem. Quite enjoyable, actually. It is the rainy season here now, so the trees and fields are vibrant green and full of new life. But once you turn off the highway, everything changes. The roads are steep and the make up of the road varies from small gravel to large boulders to running rivers and slick red mud. You need to drive over at least 5 mountain ranges. The further up the mountains you drive, the worse the road gets. The angles of many of the mountains are incredibly steep. So steep, in fact, that at times when we’d reach the peak (or ledge) of a mountain, both Paul and I had to lean forward to see where the road was heading next. There are no guard rails and some of the cliffs on either side of the “road” are sheer walls, straight down. We were very fortunate that we were driving in “the beast”. Steve has a muscled up 4x4 Toyota Hilux that Paul is now in love with. The “Beast” had no problem going up or down the crazy terrain. I got knocked around the cab quite a bit and have a bruise on my elbow from hitting the window various times. But otherwise, I’m good.

One of my favorite parts of the trip into Llano Nopo was offering the children and families walking along the road a ride in the back of the truck. There are taxis that drive up and down these roads, but it cost $3 from the highway to Llano Nopo (30 km trip). Not much for us, but 3 days salary for some here. People gladly hoped in, even though they were getting knocked around like popcorn. On the trip back, it was pouring rain, so many had rain pelting their faces. When our passengers wanted us to stop, they would bang on the cab roof. Not just a tap, a “BANG”. I jumped the first time the “signal” was given. The bang was very confident and incredible loud. Paul and I were amazed at the distance some of the children had to walk to school and home again. It would have taken 4-5 hours one way on a good day over severe mountain terrain. And they do this five days a week. And some do it in flip flops that are falling apart. Boy, we have it good.

Below is a picture of a couple walking, carrying their food, mostly rice and beans, in a bag. Llana Nopo is a hub where food is brought. People travel down the mountains from smaller villages to buy and transport their food for the month. Some of these trips are a 3 hour walk, one way. No more complaining about driving to the grocery store. The sash of the bag holding the food is supported around the forehead. These bags can be up to 100lbs. The woman are incredibly strong and literally glide up these steep, rocky, slippery paths in flip flops, and sometimes bare feet. The woman seem to carry the heavier bags. Thevideo below is the same walking path seen in the above picture.

Discribing these roads is never the same as experiencing them, but I hope you all got a glipse of what is must be like to travel here.

We had a blast. “Thanks” Paul for being such a great driver and for such a fun date! Now, that was getting there. What we did will be my next blog!

Until I blog again.
Linda

LOST IN TRANSLATION

Not speaking Spanish fluently has put me in some interesting situations. On our 6 month trip to Panama, I had unknowingly and unintentionally agreed to sing a solo at the Baptist church for Christmas Eve, in French, no less! I only recently learned that I had asked for a “much bigger caca for my family, please” at the local fruit market a few weeks ago. I thought I was saying, “I want a bigger papaya for my family, please.” In Africa, papaya is "paw-paw", not so here in Panama. "Paw-paw" is apparently “caca” . I usually laugh at myself at least once a day. Yesterday was no exception.

My Spanish speaking next door neighbor, Nico, who I rarely see, was doing some gardening the other day. I happened to be doing my laundry (outside) and decided I'd practice my Spanish. I walked over to the fence and asked about his wife, who had broken her arm a month ago. Nico proceeded to ask about my children and my husband. You see, I can usually only go this far with conversations in Spanish. But yesterday was the day I dove down a little deeper. After approximately 20 minutes, Nico smiled at me, nodded and pointed to my house and said in Spanish, “See you at 2 o’clock today”. Then he walked away. I felt a little stunned and unsure what type of a date I had just made with my elderly neighbor. I blinked a few times to be sure I was awake and walk away.

I texted Paul, “I think I am teaching an English class to our neighbor today at 2.” Paul texted back, “Interesting”. Not sure what to think, I called my friend, Tammy, and ask her to be at my house by 2 so the kids and I weren't alone with Nico. She laughed at me. It seems older men who talk a lot have quite an affinity to me!

2 o’clock rolled around and in walked Nico with his briefcase and tape player. He sat down and took out an English course book he is studying. The study book is faded light yellow, with tattered edges and is falling apart. Apparently, he wanted to learn English. Great, I could do that. We started by writing our names on a white board, but Nico was so easily distracted and half way through printing first name and last name, he suddenly pulled out a fruit and vegetable flyer from the 1970’s, that is also falling apart and stained with who knows what. I hummed and hawwed at the fruits as he pointed out each one. Then we continued with our names. Then Paul walked in, said "hello" and got to repairing a tap in our shower, which had been leaking for a few days. Suddenly, Nico was off. He joined Paul and was in the shower stale tapping the hot water facet with a wrench. Paul and I just look at each other and shrugged as Nico talked on in Spanish about needing the right “teeth” to fix the problem. We politely smiled and nodded in agreement. After a few minutes, we all sit down again and listened to a tape that went through different English words. We read through the first page in the study book, and then it was apparently time for Nico to go. He jumped up and asked what time we would meet tomorrow. Manana? I said, "No manana". He would like to meet everyday with me. I think I can only handle 2-3 days a week.

I handed Nico some avocados and ushered him out the door, but not before I think he said he is building an electrical fence and if we ring the door bell we will either die or wake him up. Good times in Panama!

Until I blog again.

Linda