The road less traveled. There’s usually a reason. The other day, Paul and I packed up our knapsacks with an ample supply of water and tuna and drove for 3 hours to Llano Nopo, a large village in the Comarca. The Comarca is an enormous amount of land, with predominately mountainous terrain, given to the indigenous by the Panamanian government. Most parts of the Comarca are only accessible by foot, horseback or 4x4. The purpose of our trip was to interview a local “Cuandero” (healing man) to continue our research into alternative medicines and attend a community meeting hosted by our in-community worker, Andrea Martinsen. Llano Nopo is a hub community that services 17 smaller communities around it. It’s in this community that Dead Wheat is considering setting up a aquaponic greenhouse to help all the communities prepare for the upcoming food shortage and move them toward greater independence and sustainability and provide them with healthier food choices.
Driving to Llana Nopo is an adventure in itself. The first hour and a half is on paved highway. No problem. Quite enjoyable, actually. It is the rainy season here now, so the trees and fields are vibrant green and full of new life. But once you turn off the highway, everything changes. The roads are steep and the make up of the road varies from small gravel to large boulders to running rivers and slick red mud. You need to drive over at least 5 mountain ranges. The further up the mountains you drive, the worse the road gets. The angles of many of the mountains are incredibly steep. So steep, in fact, that at times when we’d reach the peak (or ledge) of a mountain, both Paul and I had to lean forward to see where the road was heading next. There are no guard rails and some of the cliffs on either side of the “road” are sheer walls, straight down. We were very fortunate that we were driving in “the beast”. Steve has a muscled up 4x4 Toyota Hilux that Paul is now in love with. The “Beast” had no problem going up or down the crazy terrain. I got knocked around the cab quite a bit and have a bruise on my elbow from hitting the window various times. But otherwise, I’m good.
One of my favorite parts of the trip into Llano Nopo was offering the children and families walking along the road a ride in the back of the truck. There are taxis that drive up and down these roads, but it cost $3 from the highway to Llano Nopo (30 km trip). Not much for us, but 3 days salary for some here. People gladly hoped in, even though they were getting knocked around like popcorn. On the trip back, it was pouring rain, so many had rain pelting their faces. When our passengers wanted us to stop, they would bang on the cab roof. Not just a tap, a “BANG”. I jumped the first time the “signal” was given. The bang was very confident and incredible loud. Paul and I were amazed at the distance some of the children had to walk to school and home again. It would have taken 4-5 hours one way on a good day over severe mountain terrain. And they do this five days a week. And some do it in flip flops that are falling apart. Boy, we have it good.
Driving to Llana Nopo is an adventure in itself. The first hour and a half is on paved highway. No problem. Quite enjoyable, actually. It is the rainy season here now, so the trees and fields are vibrant green and full of new life. But once you turn off the highway, everything changes. The roads are steep and the make up of the road varies from small gravel to large boulders to running rivers and slick red mud. You need to drive over at least 5 mountain ranges. The further up the mountains you drive, the worse the road gets. The angles of many of the mountains are incredibly steep. So steep, in fact, that at times when we’d reach the peak (or ledge) of a mountain, both Paul and I had to lean forward to see where the road was heading next. There are no guard rails and some of the cliffs on either side of the “road” are sheer walls, straight down. We were very fortunate that we were driving in “the beast”. Steve has a muscled up 4x4 Toyota Hilux that Paul is now in love with. The “Beast” had no problem going up or down the crazy terrain. I got knocked around the cab quite a bit and have a bruise on my elbow from hitting the window various times. But otherwise, I’m good.
One of my favorite parts of the trip into Llano Nopo was offering the children and families walking along the road a ride in the back of the truck. There are taxis that drive up and down these roads, but it cost $3 from the highway to Llano Nopo (30 km trip). Not much for us, but 3 days salary for some here. People gladly hoped in, even though they were getting knocked around like popcorn. On the trip back, it was pouring rain, so many had rain pelting their faces. When our passengers wanted us to stop, they would bang on the cab roof. Not just a tap, a “BANG”. I jumped the first time the “signal” was given. The bang was very confident and incredible loud. Paul and I were amazed at the distance some of the children had to walk to school and home again. It would have taken 4-5 hours one way on a good day over severe mountain terrain. And they do this five days a week. And some do it in flip flops that are falling apart. Boy, we have it good.
Below is a picture of a couple walking, carrying their food, mostly rice and beans, in a bag. Llana Nopo is a hub where food is brought. People travel down the mountains from smaller villages to buy and transport their food for the month. Some of these trips are a 3 hour walk, one way. No more complaining about driving to the grocery store. The sash of the bag holding the food is supported around the forehead. These bags can be up to 100lbs. The woman are incredibly strong and literally glide up these steep, rocky, slippery paths in flip flops, and sometimes bare feet. The woman seem to carry the heavier bags. 
Thevideo below is the same walking path seen in the above picture.
Thevideo below is the same walking path seen in the above picture.Discribing these roads is never the same as experiencing them, but I hope you all got a glipse of what is must be like to travel here.
We had a blast. “Thanks” Paul for being such a great driver and for such a fun date! Now, that was getting there. What we did will be my next blog!
Until I blog again.
Linda
No comments:
Post a Comment